What is the best product to use as a car wash? The correct answer is use what you like the best. There are some drawbacks to certain products and advantages to others. Dish detergents (Ivory Liquid, etc.) may be used, but realize that these products are designed to remove animal or vegetable fat from fired ceramic. They look at your nice coat of wax with the same hungry eyes. If you enjoy washing and re-waxing weekly, then dish detergent is for you. Wax retailers love people who use Ivory Liquid (they send the Ivory Company Christmas Cards every year).
If you prefer to have your wax last a lot longer, you may consider using a product that is specifically designed for automotive use. The quality products are based upon detergents instead of soaps. Most soaps are manufactured from rendered animal byproducts (the stuff the dog food people reject). They contain trace elements that can actually damage your paint. These trace elements are the same goodies that leave a ring in your bath tub. The exception are soaps manufactured from plant fats. (these leave mold in your tub - just kidding)
Quality car washes/shampoos (same thing - most cars don't have hair) are usually pH controlled, contain gloss enhancers and some even have small amounts of water soluble wax for good measure. Use only enough car wash to break the electrostatic/ionic bond between the dirt and your car. Start with a clean large bucket (preferably plastic - if you kick the metal bucket, Mr. Paint Chip rears his ugly head), add a small amount of the car wash and fill with cool water. Avoid hot water as it will soften the wax. Read the directions on the car wash bottle and try reducing the recommended amount by 25%. If you still like the results, reduce it by another 25% and so on. When you have found the amount that does not clean the car as well as it should, go back one step, you have found your index. I use less than a cap full in 5 gallons. The more car wash, the more wax you remove. Try to avoid powder car washes as the undissolved granules can lodge under your sponge or towel and scratch the paint surface. I have tried most of the car washes on the market and my personal favorite is Sonax Gloss Shampoo.
Make sure that your car is in the shade and the paint surface is relatively cool. Rule of thumb #1: If you can comfortably hold your hand on the hood, you can wash/wax the car.
Spray the car with a gentle spray to thoroughly wet the surface. Don't use a 200 P.S.I. fire hydrant spray, it isn't needed and may grind the surface grime into the paint and cause scratches. Some of the concour purists will not use a nozzle on the hose at all, they allow the water to gently flow over the surface. Start at the top of the car and work down. Re-wet the top, gently wash the top and then rinse. Move onto another section, such as the trunk or hood. Re-wet this area, wash and rinse. Continue on down the car, completing a section at a time. This way, the car wash does not dry on the paint.
You may use a wash mitt, towel or sponge to wash your car. I prefer a wash mitt as the grit tends to work up into the long fibers and not scratch the paint. When I re-dip the mitt into the wash bucket, I give it a swirl to release the grit. The flat surface of a sponge can sometimes catch dirt and act like a sandpaper. The purist will use two wash mitts. One for the top half of the car (the cleanest) and one for below the trim line and wheels/wheelwells.
You should dry the car as soon as possible. There are several methods to accomplish this. Lots of towels are a great drying medium. They should be 100% cotton (some of the blends contain polymer fibers that scratch). Start at the top, lay the towel on the top and then GENTLY blot up the water from the surface. Change to a dry towel and blot any remaining water. Move to the hood or trunk and repeat. Dry the sides last as the water will usually take care of itself on these surfaces. Another method is to use a chamois. There are two types, natural and synthetic. The natural leather chamois contain acids, primarily tannic, that strip wax. Most synthetic towels don't seem to do a satisfactory job. One exception is the P21S Super Absorbing Drying Towel. I have stopped using towels after trying this goodie and I used to be a "dyed in the wool" towel man. Driving the car to dry it may be fun, but you are redepositing dirt on the wet surface and allowing the resulting "mud" to dry on the paint.
I hope that the above brief synopsis rinses away some popular myths. . If there are any questions, please do not hesitate to call or write. If you can't find the products locally, I stock all of them and would be glad to send a complete product description/price list/car care tips package by mail.
Larry Reynolds
Car Care Specialties, Inc.
Distributors of Quality Car Care Products
Post Office Box 535
Saddle Brook, NJ 07663-0535
Phone (201) 796-8300
Fax (201) 791-9743